Men of Faith part 1

"I know how you feel. Don't worry." Here we were, standing in front of an Orthodox church in the center of Ozurgeti, and I was about to enter and ask if they could find us a place to stay. I didn't feel comfortable at all, I had no idea how to even act in an Orthodox church but Tim was good at reassuring me. The walk from Kobuleti to Ozurgeti was long and I was tired - speaking Russian and explaining our story to some priests was the last thing I wanted to do...but we needed a place to stay and we had no other option...

"We have come from far away, on foot," I manage to communicate to the lady selling memorablia behind a counter in the icon-filled church. "I would like to talk to a priest please." I had my hat in my hand and I was nervous as a black-bearded priest approached. He had a mean look on his face and didn't seem very holy to me at all. I greeted him as kindly as I knew how and shook his hand as he gave me a suspicious look. Tim, more aware of protocol, followed by kissing and placing his forehead on the priest's hand (as is the custom in the Orthodox Church). We step outside and I begin to explain what we were doing. "You can't sleep inside the church. You can sleep out here." Temperatures were reaching 0 in the evenings and sleeping outside was no option, yet the priest had no sympathetic ear for us. "Well, I tried my best," I thought to myself as the realization that we had no place to sleep started sinking in. Tim and I grabbed our backpacks and were about to leave when we were greeed by a smiling face - Father Ermolaus (Ermo).

"You two, will be guests in my home," said the slim red-haired man. I make a move as to kiss his hand yet he assures me there is no need. "You're not Orhtodox are you?" "No father, my friend Tim and I were raised Catholics...."


After a few minutes of waiting in the candle lit church and a few candies from the lady behind the counter, Father Ermo came and showed us to his car where we were greeted by his father, a slim, white-haired man named Levani. Before we knew it we were speedying away towards a friend of Father Ermo's where we would join a birthday celebration - the first of many Georgian feasts I would experience over the course of the next few days.

"He sure drives fast for a priest!" Father Ermo was dodging pedestrains left and right as he raced his car down the muddy village road. Levani was intrigued by our story and bombarded me with an array of questions and I did my best to answer all of them yet I was exhausted from the day's walk....it seemed the road was taking more and more out of me.....

The birthday crowd was cheerful as we entered yet they had not partaken of any of the tasty dishes piled up on top of each other on the long table in the living room. Although another priest, Father Basili was present, they all waited for Father Ermo to bless the food and wine. Everyone greeted us cordially and Father Basili, a thin bearded round priest, took to me soon as we exchanged jokes, anecdotes and many kind words.

"I would like to say a toast for you, our guests from Croatia and France. Us Georgians believe guests are gifts from God, may God bless you with health and safe journeys!" Father Ermo was a wise man and made a great Tamada (toastmaster). His toasts were morsels of spiritual instruction, philosophical quips and in a way mini-prayers. The crowd of 30 or so men stood on their feet and drank to Tim and I's health and we drank down our glasses of wine together. Unfortunately for Tim the toast did not turn out to be true, for his health was deteriorating and would keep us in Ozurgeti for an unexpectedly long time, giving me an opportunity to learn about Orthodox Christianity and to even act as an assistant to a priest...